My father was in town and treated me and the roomie to dinner at Mesa Grill. Watching Bobby Flay on television usually rubs me the wrong way but now I know his food does not. This is the restaurant that really put him on the culinary scene map and I can see why; food, service and decor was superb. I’ve heard that Mesa Grill isn’t what it used to be which I’m finding is typical of most post-hype New York restaurants, clubs, etc. But I’m fine with coming late to that party.
The food was all very familiar, especially after watching him countless times on Iron Chef, etc. You know the formula: take something like duck, beef, pork, fish, etc. - apply southwestern thematic ingredients (citrus, chilis, etc.) and serve it on top of a flavorful orange and/or green sauce, typically made from chilis. Yes it seems redundant but damn it if it’s not incredibly delicious.
However, I do take exception with my main course: Venison Chops with Toasted Almond Mole. I have this habit of ordering the most “exotic” offering(s) on the menu - some of my friends have a nicknamed me “sweetbreads” because of it. I’ve had venison before but it’s always been prepared in a home of hunters and not in a restaurant. I can’t say this was my favorite experience with venison. I ordered it medium-rare which was wise because it was still tough and chewy on the ends. I am also a LOVER of mole (looking forward to eating Thanksgiving turkey with - you guessed it - mole) but this one was on the absent-flavor side.
However, I still enjoyed my meal. The appetizer, a blue-corn pancake with duck, habanero chili sauce and star anise sauce (see what I mean?) was fantastic as were the rest of the appetizers on the table (goat cheese queso fundido and oyster salad). And the chile relleno I ordered on side: the best I’ve ever had. The other entrees I tasted were killer and the desserts prepared by pastry chef Vicki Wells were sinful.
I left with a food high which is my way of knowing I’d go back. I just won’t order the venison next time. Never fear, Chicago - I still prefer to dine at Topolobampo…
I was just listening to …And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead - Wasted State of Mind